by LaurelC-19, 28 July 2009

Laurel took a year off before heading to university. Read about her here

In Uganda we visited Ngamba island, which was basically one huge chimpanzee rehabilitation center. It was impeccably run and well-organized. Most memorably, its residents were hilarious. The chimps sleep in cages at night but during the day they go off into the jungle to do what chimps do. It is important to note that they leave and return at their own volition and at their own scheduling - who wouldn't want a sheltered place to sleep at night? At meal times, with a regularity and promptness that can only be explained by some sort of complex evolutionary mechanism, they return to indulge in their favorite (healthy) foods. I am ashamed to admit that even with the quintessential mark of machinery made by an intelligent creator - a Rolex watch - I could probably not achieve any comparable punctuality.

The chimps were so cheeky. When the time came for their meals, they would stand up, and with one arm outstretched, palm out, and the other arm on its hip, awaiting the pre-cut pieces of fruit that are thrown by caretakers. I was rather impressed by the nonchalant ease with which they caught the food.

So there I was, watching them, when a particular chimp surprised me with his agile use of his feet - causing me to so exclaim (in the mindless, unfiltered manner I often do): "OH MY GOD! Do they have opposable toes?! Iiiii want opposable toes!". It was to no one in particular, but I suppose mostly to a dignified man next to me because, unaware to me, no one else was around. After such an outlandish outburst, we had no choice but to begin a conversation and it turned out he was the UN Director of Aviation for Sudan! He was writing a book, and had worked in every conflict zone you could think of, and had also been in the British Air Force with Prince Charles. A recounted royal exchange:

- "So why are you here, Charles?"

- "Why do you think? My mother, of course."

Despite the worst first statement to say to a UN official ever, he was undeterred in telling me his life story and the wisdom he had accumulated along the way. I listened mouth agape, cheeks still burning from my loud statement of symian envy. His parting story and advice for me were to never, ever delay going to a doctor if you had flu-like symptoms after having been a malarial zone. He knew a 22 year-old paramedic who obviously knew his stuff but who had recently died all of a sudden of malaria because he had dismissed his symptoms. Definitely very good advice as it turned out later...

Uganda - an elegant adventure